Issue 113 - October 2024

Where Blue Becomes Green: Lessons From Thailand’s Turbid Reefs

By Sophie Coxon

The island is washed into the water, clouding the blue sea green, shielding the reefs from the searing sunlight and settling in a blanket of soft murk over the undulating coral landscape.

A giant clam fringed with algae, embedded in the reef at Mae Haad, Koh Phangan. Photo by Sophie Coxon, 2024

A tidal wave of coral research and restoration has swept the global oceans and lapped at shallow coastlines over the past few decades, spurred by the increased appreciation for coral reef ecosystems and the value these habitats contribute to planet Earth. The kaleidoscopic kingdoms of sunlit reefs, sparkling in crystal clear waters and pulsing with shoals of fish, turtles and the shadows of sharks, attract a huge influx of attention due to their aesthetic appeal and hence receive the majority of research funding. But other kinds of reef exist, and may hold invaluable resilience to pressures and stresses which could unlock new hope for the future of conserving the planet’s struggling coral reefs. If we can look deeper than surface-level appearance and place value in grittier realms, the tools required to combat coral reef decline may be within reach.

The island of Koh Phangan is well stamped on the maps of young backpackers and travellers, known for its infamous full moon parties and zen yoga community. The island acts as a stepping stone for divers on their way to the marine paradise of Koh Tao, one of the world’s most heavily dived regions, famed for its vast coral reefs, anemone beds and vortexing tornadoes of trevally and barracuda. However, the reefs of Koh Phangan, only a few kilometres south, lie relatively unscathed by the bubbling swarms of divers. This is no doubt due to the fact that these reefs are turbid, exhibiting vastly different ecological conditions to the crystalline water column and flamboyantly technicolour reefs of Koh Tao. In the summer of 2024 I spent three magical months on this island, and my understanding and appreciation of these cloudy, silted, plankton-infused reefs took spark.

Turbid reef systems are significantly understudied in comparison to their oligotrophic counterparts, though are beginning to gain interest as the struggle to develop long-term coral restoration techniques intensifies. Characterised by high levels of suspended sediment, increased algal cover and low coral diversity, turbid reefs inhabit vast areas of shallow tropical and temperate coastlines, including 30% of the Coral Triangle, the most biodiverse reef region on the planet. High sedimentation levels are often classified as a stress to coral reefs, however naturally turbid systems are well adapted to these murky conditions, and may even benefit from the abundance of silt, plankton and organic matter that enshrouds them.

Whilst corals growing within turbid ecosystems exhibit slower growth, they also show improved stress tolerance, reduced bleaching and lower mortality rates than those in non-turbid systems, and are robust against the plethora of pressures burdening shallow ecosystems provoked by climate change and growing anthropogenic exploitation. Recent research has suggested that the suspended particles reflect a large percentage of UV radiation which exacerbates bleaching, and the inhabitant coral colonies are accustomed to being smothered by sediment, constantly producing mucus which sloughs off any surface debris. Plainly put, turbid reef systems are not the picturesque kingdoms of tropical colour and aquatic enchantment that springs to mind with the words ‘coral reef’, however the biodiversity they harbour and ecological services they supply are no less important.

Black damselfish surrounding a large colony of Porites coral at Haad Salad, Koh Phangan. Photo by Sophie Coxon, 2024.

I was integrated into a team of researchers at the COREsea station on the north shore of the island, spending long days diving in the various bays collecting data for long-term monitoring projects, as well as conducting my own research study on fish assemblages across reef zones. We assessed reef substrate composition, bleaching cover, coral predators, fish communities and giant clam abundance across the survey sites, compiling everything in a decade-long data archive – a live picture of the trends, dynamics and fluctuations occurring on Koh Phangan’s murky reefs. No other similar research has been published on this specific region, leaving a gaping hole in the scientific literature and our understanding of Thailand’s tropical turbid reef systems.

Though naturally turbid and rich in organic matter, with the onslaught of development and increasing tourism, Koh Phangan’s reefs are becoming inundated with threats. Construction and forest clearing on the island’s junglish slopes loosens sediments, which are rapidly washed into the surrounding coastal waters with every monsoon downpour. The footprint of the tourist industry is also leaving its mark, with pollution and disturbance accelerating every year, combining with the effects of climate change to push the already overfished and exploited reefs to the edge.

Researching these ecosystems is crucial to protecting and preserving them; without establishing biodiversity baselines and monitoring the temporal changes occurring, it is impossible to predict future outcomes and support new protection measures that may be fundamental to preventing degradation.

Throughout my time working on these reefs, I became closely familiar with the patterns and quirks that instilled a certain charm to the ecosystem. There was as much beauty here as any other reef I had dived, it just took a more willing eye to see it. After only a few days, I felt at home in the greenish murk, the glowing white streak of the transect line the only sense of direction in the vast expanse of coral canyons, pillars and plateaus that stretched out around me. Nudibranchs could be found speckled across the boulder corals, where pairs of butterflyfish sucked corallites through puckered lips and cushion stars lay, plump and velvety, like pincushions placed on coral plates. The jade-tinged haze of the water cloaked everything in mystery, blurring the silhouettes of fish into translucent shadows and suggestions, obscuring the treasures of the reef from all but the most vigilant observers. However, the blinding white scars of bleached coral gradually became more and more abundant across the reefs, like warning beacons signifying the beginnings of a disaster.

A fully bleached colony of Coelastrea, encircled by healthy Porites colonies at Mae Haad, Koh Phangan. Photo by Sophie Coxon, 2024.

Not long into my stay, an ocean heatwave singed the globe, and the Gulf of Thailand simmered. As sea temperatures soared into the mid 30s (Celcius), a plankton bloom engulfed the bays and the visibility dropped to between 1 and 2 metres. The water column was thick and green, and the monsoon rains sent rivers of sediment pouring onto the reefs every afternoon. The dives went on, and we continued monitoring the reefs, watching them turn a ghostly white before us. By the end of my three month research period, huge areas of the reefs were completely bleached, and finding a coral that was unscathed by bleaching was near impossible.

Whilst bleaching is not immediately fatal, if conditions remain inhospitable for a lengthened period, many coral colonies, some close to a century old, may succumb to this slow and pallid death, leaving nothing but empty skeletons to dissolve in the acidic seawater that once gave them life.

A partially bleached colony of Lobophyllia, well on its way to becoming fully bleached, as was much of the reef in Mae Haad, Koh Phangan, by July 2024. Photo by Sophie Coxon, 2024.

The snapshot of coral bleaching I was exposed to throughout my research period was both eye-opening and eye-watering. The severity of the issue was branded into my mind with every subsequent dive, the tally marks in the ‘fully bleached’ column multiplying each time, filling the clipboard with grim black smudges. The toughest, most resilient reefs we know of are now failing under the crushing weight of climate change and human interference. But the future of these reefs can still be steered towards vibrancy – to lose them would mean a loss of food and livelihood for the hundreds of local communities who call the Gulf of Thailand home, and would have deep-rooted impacts across marine food webs, affecting biodiversity throughout a vast region of ocean. The cushioning effect provided by the toughened forms of ancient bouldering corals would leave coastlines open to the elements, and the fronds of life on the reef, woven tightly into the tapestry of the local cultures and traditions, would be lost.

There is more to turbid reefs that initially meets the eye, and we must enrich our understanding, connection and appreciation of these systems to grant them a place in our restoration frameworks. With more research, like the work carried out by the dedicated team at COREsea, the mysteries of these reefs and the limits of their resilience can be uncovered and shared across global reef conservation.

About The Author

Sophie is a qualified scientific diver, with a degree in Ecology and Environmental Sciences and an avid passion for tropical coral reef ecosystems and the fish communities within them. She has worked across the globe in Indonesia, Thailand, and her home country of Scotland, in marine projects including seagrass and oyster reef restoration, coral reef restoration, shark and elasmobranch monitoring, and fish assemblage assessments. She is now studying a master’s degree in Marine Systems & Policies, and uses writing to illustrate her experiences of ocean science in a creative, though informative way, aiming to help people connect with the marine realm and spark a passion to protect it.

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SEVENSEAS Travel Magazine – October 2024 – Issue 113

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Navigating Growth in Conservation Careers and Finding Balance in an Unbalanced World

Issue 113 - October 2024

SEVENSEAS Travel Magazine – October 2024 – Issue 113

Where Blue Becomes Green: Lessons From Thailand’s Turbid Reefs

Navigating Growth in Conservation Careers and Finding Balance in an Unbalanced World

Photo of Giacomo Abrusci in the Dolomites

Pioneering Welsh Seagrass Nursery Growing & Sowing Seeds to Restore Lost Meadows

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Guy Harvey Honored as The 2024 SeaKeeper of The Year

Guy Harvey, a renowned marine wildlife artist and conservationist, has been a steadfast champion for ocean conservation and its inhabitants. His vision and passion for marine biology led to the establishment of the Guy Harvey Research Institute (GHRI) at Nova Southeastern University in 1999. Read the full article…

Cleaning Stations & Coastal Cruising – Under the Waves with Karim Iliya, October 2024

Under the Waves with Karim Iliya, October 2024, Photo Banner

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SSI Launches Global Ambassador Program to Elevate Diving Community

Scuba Schools International (SSI) is thrilled to announce the launch of its Global Ambassador Program, featuring nine extraordinary individuals worldwide. These SSI Ambassadors represent the pinnacle of expertise in freediving, scuba diving, extended range, and other specialities. Read the full announcement…

Book Suggestion: “Megalodons, Mermaids, and Climate Change” A New Book that Separates Fact from Fiction

Columbia University Press announces the forthcoming release of “Megalodons, Mermaids, and Climate Change: Answers to Your Ocean and Atmosphere Questions,” a compelling exploration of the natural world by renowned marine scientist Ellen Prager and veteran meteorologist Dave Jones. This engaging work, set to be released on October 22, 2024, promises to captivate readers with its accessible approach to complex scientific concepts. Find out more about the book…

Feature Destination: LMMA Practitioners in Tanzania Gather to Strengthen Collaboration Efforts for Marine Conservation

Locally Managed Marine Areas (LMMA) have emerged as a promising model that address challenges faced in marine conservation in the Western Indian Ocean region. Read the full article…

Feature Destination: Tanzania, a Bucket List Destination Like No Other

Tanzania is a land where nature, adventure, and culture blend into one of the most extraordinary travel experiences on the planet. Read the full article…

Feature Destination: Actions to Strengthen Marine Turtle Conservation Agreed at UN Meeting in Tanzania

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A Teen Environmentalist Attending The UN Summit of The Future Shares Her Fears & Hopes for The Planet

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Piping Plovers: Climate Change Threatens Endangered Shorebirds by Lindsay Keller

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New England Aquarium Scientists Spot Critically Endangered Right Whales in Unusual NY Feeding Ground

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Sacha Lodge Announces New Private Birding Tours in Ecuadorian Amazon

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MSU Researchers Build Connection Between Forests & Drinking Water, Outreach & Conservation Strategies Follow

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National Geographic’s Sharkfest 2024: Discover the Wonders of the Shark World

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The FREE Weekly Conservation Post and Jobs List

Signing up for the free Weekly Newsletter & Jobs List will get you a round-up of upcoming events, webinars, meetings, reports, funding opportunities, photos of the week, and recent postings to the jobs list.

To sign up for our free subscription, please Click Here, or email us Here.

Since 2004, SEVENSEAS Media has fostered an informal and non-partisan platform to promote understanding of key issues and challenges while building partnerships across an increasingly diverse group of marine conservation professionals and students.

Our mission is to promote communication and build partnerships across the global marine community and to identify and address gaps in the community’s work. SEVENSEAS Media achieves this through multimedia promotion and partnerships. The community consists of a diverse and growing group of participants, including non-governmental organizations, government agencies, foundations, bilateral and multilateral agencies, fellowship programs, independent consultants, and academia/students.

If you are interested in contributing or getting involved, email Here.

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Issue 113 - October 2024

Navigating Growth in Conservation Careers and Finding Balance in an Unbalanced World

For many of us working in conservation, the path we’ve chosen is more than just a career, it’s a way of life. But as we move forward in our roles, the weight of what we see and experience can take a significant toll. Habitats destroyed. Species extinct. And sometimes, even when we do everything right, the larger systems at play don’t allow for the success we hoped for. The science was right when we were children, and today we’re witnessing the price being paid- by the planet, by humanity, and by the fragile ecosystems we’ve devoted our lives to protecting.

In the face of these overwhelming realities, it’s not uncommon for conservationists to experience burnout. We ask ourselves: Is it alright to take a break from conservation? What happens when hope is lost?

The Need for Breaks and Rediscovery

Yes, it is alright to step away, to take a pause. In fact, it’s necessary. Conservationists, like anyone else, need time to process, recharge, and reflect. Without these breaks, our mental, emotional, and physical health can deteriorate, which ultimately limits the impact we’re able to make.

When hope seems lost, that’s precisely when it’s time to reevaluate and ask some fundamental questions about why we’re here. Are we dedicated to the mission of an organization? To the preservation of a specific species or habitat? Or are we here because of a deep-rooted desire to make the world a better place, whether for a single animal, plant, or entire ecosystems?

Continuing Education: Traditional and Non-Traditional Paths

One way to rekindle that initial passion is through continuing education. This doesn’t always have to be in the traditional sense, such as earning an additional degree or certification, though those routes certainly offer value. But for those who have spent too much time behind a computer, it might be worth considering more non-traditional forms of education: immersive field experiences, hands-on workshops, or even short-term volunteering in places that inspire you. These opportunities not only provide a chance to learn but also serve as a powerful reminder of why we began this journey in the first place.

If you’re feeling stuck, getting out into the field, even for a short time, can shift your mindset and offer new perspectives. Seeing conservation work in action, whether it’s in a remote forest or a coastal village, has a way of reigniting the passion that brought you here in the first place.

Redefining Success in Conservation

Conservation is not a linear career path. The traditional markers of success, climbing the ladder, earning a promotion, don’t necessarily apply here. It’s always healthy to redefine what success looks like, both in terms of your personal life and professional career. You may find that after years of dedication, your goals and aspirations have shifted. And that’s okay.

We didn’t get into this field for money, but our health and security need to come first. Whether that means shifting to a role that prioritizes balance, or reimagining the impact you want to have, there’s no wrong answer.

Finding Contentment Amid Loss

The heartbreaking reality is that we won’t save everything. But that doesn’t diminish the value of what we do. It’s important to find peace with where we are- not necessarily where we’re headed. This means accepting that while we may lose biodiversity, habitats, and even hope at times, we must continue striving for that balance between what’s possible and what’s realistic.

At the end of the day, most of us in this field are here because we care deeply. We care about the world, its people, and the creatures that inhabit it. Our daily efforts, even if small, make the world better than it was yesterday. And that’s enough.

So, whether you’re at a crossroads in your career or just need a reminder of why you’re here, remember that it’s okay to pause, rethink, and redefine what matters most to you. After all, the only constant in conservation is change- both in the world around us and within ourselves.

Giacomo Abrusci, Executive Director, SEVENSEAS Media

Feature Destination

Feature Destination: Tanzania, a Bucket List Destination Like No Other

Tanzania is a land where nature, adventure, and culture blend into one of the most extraordinary travel experiences on the planet. Whether you’re a seasoned traveler or someone looking to immerse themselves in nature’s raw beauty for the first time, Tanzania should be on your bucket list. From the towering heights of Mount Kilimanjaro to the endless plains of the Serengeti, and the vibrant underwater world surrounding Zanzibar, this East African gem promises experiences that are both soul-stirring and life-changing.

Imagine trekking through misty forests to reach the summit of Africa’s highest peak, witnessing the Great Migration on a wildlife safari, or diving into the crystal-clear waters of the Indian Ocean alongside whale sharks and sea turtles. Tanzania’s diverse ecosystems and rich cultural heritage offer something for every kind of traveler. This guide will take you from the highest points of Kilimanjaro to the deep blue of the Indian Ocean, offering a comprehensive look at how to plan your perfect Tanzanian adventure.

How to Get to Tanzania and What to Expect

Flights and Entry

Tanzania has three major international airports: Julius Nyerere International Airport in Dar es Salaam, Kilimanjaro International Airport near Arusha, and Abeid Amani Karume International Airport in Zanzibar. Depending on your itinerary, you might fly into one of these gateways. Flights from Europe, Asia, and the U.S. are well-serviced, often with a stopover in cities like Doha, Istanbul, or Nairobi. Airlines such as Qatar Airways, Turkish Airlines, and Kenya Airways offer regular routes.

Once you land, a visa is required for most nationalities, which you can apply for online or obtain upon arrival for around $50. Make sure your passport has at least six months’ validity.

Best Time to Visit

Tanzania’s dry seasons, from June to October and January to February, are the best times to visit. June through October offers cooler temperatures and excellent wildlife viewing, especially for the Great Migration in the Serengeti. If you’re planning to climb Kilimanjaro, these months are ideal for trekking. For diving enthusiasts, the best underwater visibility around Zanzibar and Mafia Island is between October and March, though some marine life, like whale sharks, are seasonal.

What to Pack

Tanzania’s diverse climate means you’ll need to pack carefully. For safaris, lightweight, breathable clothing in neutral colors is ideal for blending into the environment. Hiking Kilimanjaro requires warmer layers, sturdy hiking boots, and rain protection, especially as you ascend to higher altitudes. For coastal and diving activities, pack swimsuits, reef-friendly sunscreen, and a good pair of rock shoes for beach walks.

Don’t forget insect repellent with DEET, especially if you’re visiting areas where malaria is present. Always bring a good-quality camera for safaris and diving excursions, and consider binoculars for wildlife viewing.

Exploring Tanzania by Land: Safaris and Wildlife

Tanzania is perhaps best known for its iconic wildlife safaris, where visitors can witness nature’s most dramatic spectacles. The country is home to the Big Five—lions, leopards, elephants, buffalo, and rhinos—as well as cheetahs, giraffes, zebras, and thousands of other species that roam its vast plains.

Booking a Safari

To book a safari, you have two options: join a pre-organized group or go for a private experience. Both options can be arranged through tour operators based in Arusha, the safari capital of Tanzania, or from international operators. Safaris can range from budget-friendly camping trips to luxury lodge experiences.

Top Safari Destinations

Serengeti National Park: Famous for the annual Great Migration, where over 1.5 million wildebeests and 200,000 zebras make their way across the plains, the Serengeti offers unforgettable game viewing year-round. Lions, cheetahs, and leopards are commonly spotted here, alongside elephants and giraffes.
Ngorongoro Crater: A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Ngorongoro Crater is a natural amphitheater home to a dense population of wildlife, including the endangered black rhino. The lush greenery and high-altitude setting make for a visually stunning safari experience.
Tarangire National Park: Best known for its large elephant herds and ancient baobab trees, Tarangire is a quieter alternative to the Serengeti, with fewer tourists and excellent birdwatching opportunities.
Ruaha National Park: For a more remote and wild safari experience, Ruaha offers dramatic landscapes and a high concentration of predators, including lions and leopards.

Mount Kilimanjaro

The snow-capped peak of Mount Kilimanjaro is an adventure seeker’s dream, offering the chance to climb the highest freestanding mountain in the world. Rising 5,895 meters above sea level, Kilimanjaro can be summited via several routes, with the Lemosho and Machame routes being the most scenic.

Getting to Kilimanjaro

Most trekkers start their journey in Arusha or Moshi, both of which are easily accessible from Kilimanjaro International Airport. Tours can be arranged through licensed operators, and it’s crucial to book with a company that prioritizes safety and proper acclimatization. The climb typically takes 6-8 days, depending on the route.

What to Expect on the Climb

The trek takes you through five distinct ecological zones, from tropical rainforest to alpine desert, before reaching the icy summit. Altitude sickness is a real risk, so it’s important to pace yourself and stay hydrated. Expect long days of hiking, cool nights, and stunning views of Africa from the summit at Uhuru Peak.

Seagrass bed in Zanzibar — Credit: Ben Jones / Ocean Image Bank

Diving in Tanzania: An Underwater Wonderland

Tanzania’s coastline and islands offer some of the best diving in the world. Whether you’re a seasoned diver or a beginner, there’s something here for everyone. The warm waters of the Indian Ocean are teeming with life, from coral reefs to large pelagic species.

Best Dive Sites

Mnemba Atoll, Zanzibar: Known as the “Tropical Fish Capital of East Africa,” Mnemba Atoll offers fantastic visibility and gentle drift dives along coral walls filled with a kaleidoscope of marine life. Expect to see moray eels, clownfish, and occasionally dolphins.
Mafia Island Marine Park: Mafia Island is a diver’s paradise, home to over 460 species of fish and 40 types of coral. Between October and March, whale sharks migrate through these waters, making it one of the few places in the world where you can dive alongside these gentle giants.
Pemba Island: Less touristy than its neighbor Zanzibar, Pemba offers dramatic drop-offs, coral-encrusted walls, and encounters with sharks, including hammerheads. The Misali Island Coral Garden is another must-visit, boasting vibrant reefs and turtles.
Lake Tanganyika: Freshwater diving in Lake Tanganyika offers a completely different experience, with endemic cichlid species and crystal-clear waters. It’s a perfect add-on to a safari in Gombe Stream National Park, where you can see chimpanzees.

Boats on the water under a cloudy sky in Zanzibar

Zanzibar: The Spice Island

No trip to Tanzania is complete without visiting Zanzibar, the Spice Island. Famous for its pristine beaches, spice markets, and the UNESCO-listed Stone Town, Zanzibar is the perfect place to unwind after a safari or Kilimanjaro trek.

What to Do in Zanzibar

Explore Stone Town: Wander through narrow, winding streets filled with history. Visit the Freddie Mercury Museum, the old slave market, and the Sultan’s Palace.
Relax on the Beaches: From Nungwi in the north to Paje on the east coast, Zanzibar’s beaches are postcard-perfect with powdery sand and azure waters.
Spice Tours: Learn about Zanzibar’s history as the “Spice Island” on a tour of local plantations. You’ll discover how cloves, vanilla, and cinnamon are grown and harvested.

A journey through Tanzania offers something for every kind of traveler. Whether you’re scaling the heights of Kilimanjaro, experiencing the thrill of a safari, diving into the vibrant underwater world of Zanzibar, or simply soaking in the culture and natural beauty, this is a trip you will never forget. Tanzania is a destination that stays with you long after you’ve left, inviting you to return and explore more.

One-Week Itinerary

Day 1-2: Arrive in Arusha, explore the town, and prepare for your safari.
Day 3-4: Head to Serengeti National Park for wildlife viewing. Overnight in a safari lodge.
Day 5: Visit Ngorongoro Crater for a day trip. Overnight in Karatu.
Day 6-7: Fly to Zanzibar. Relax on the beach, explore Stone Town, and enjoy a spice tour.

Two-Week Itinerary

Day 1-2: Arrive in Arusha and head to Tarangire National Park for elephant watching.
Day 3-5: Embark on a multi-day safari in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater.
Day 6-8: Climb Mount Kilimanjaro via the Lemosho route. Spend the nights at designated camps.
Day 9-12: Fly to Zanzibar. Enjoy diving at Mnemba Atoll and Pemba Island.
Day 13-14: Relax on Zanzibar’s beaches and explore Stone Town before heading home.

With this guide, you’ll have all the information you need to plan a dream trip to Tanzania. From its rich wildlife to its crystal-clear waters, every moment here promises to be unforgettable.